Most of us grab a shampoo off the shelf because the bottle looks nice, or because it says something vague like “volumising” on the front. Totally understandable. But if you’ve ever spent good money on a shampoo that left your hair feeling worse than before, it’s probably worth getting a little more familiar with what’s actually inside.
Reading a shampoo label doesn’t require a chemistry degree. Once you know what to look for, it becomes pretty easy to spot the formulas that are going to work for you and the ones you should put straight back.
How to Read a Shampoo Ingredients List
Why does the order of ingredients matter?
By law, cosmetic brands in Australia are required to list ingredients in descending order of concentration. So whatever’s listed first makes up the largest portion of the formula, and whatever’s listed last is present in the smallest amount.
Water (aqua) is almost always first, which makes sense given it’s the base of most shampoos. The next few ingredients are usually the ones doing the most work, which is why it’s worth paying attention to them specifically rather than skimming the whole list.
What does “fragrance” or “parfum” on a label mean?
In Australia and internationally, manufacturers are allowed to list fragrance as a single ingredient rather than disclosing every individual scent compound. This matters if you have a sensitive scalp or skin, because fragrance can be a hidden source of irritation. If you find your scalp gets itchy or inflamed after using certain shampoos, a fragrance-free formula is worth trying.
Common Shampoo Ingredients to Know About
What are sulphates and should I avoid them?
Sulphates, most commonly sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulphate (SLES), are surfactants. Their job is to create lather and remove oil and buildup from your scalp and hair. They’re effective, but they can be too effective for some hair types. If you have colour-treated, dry, or curly hair, sulphates may strip your hair of too much of its natural moisture, leaving it dry and frizzy.
That said, they’re not evil. If you have an oily scalp and fine, straight hair, a sulphate-containing shampoo might actually be exactly what you need.
Are silicones in shampoo a problem?
Silicones (look for ingredients ending in -cone, -conol, or -xane, like dimethicone or cyclopentasiloxane) coat the hair shaft to create slip and shine. They can make hair feel incredibly smooth, but they do build up over time, which is why some people find their hair feeling heavy or flat after extended use.
If you love silicones, using a clarifying shampoo every couple of weeks can help clear that buildup. If you’d rather skip them altogether, there are plenty of silicone-free options.
What are the good ingredients to look for?
This depends on your hair type, but a few worth knowing about:
Panthenol (provitamin B5): Adds moisture and helps improve elasticity. Good for dry or damaged hair.
Niacinamide: More commonly known as a skincare ingredient, but it’s making its way into haircare for its scalp-soothing properties.
Glycerin: A humectant that draws moisture into the hair. Helpful for dry or curly hair types.
Keratin: A protein naturally found in hair. Can help strengthen and smooth the hair shaft.
Salicylic acid: Useful in shampoos designed to treat a flaky or congested scalp.
What the Front Label Claims Actually Mean
What does “volumising” shampoo actually do?
Volumising shampoos typically use lighter-weight ingredients and avoid heavy oils and silicones that can weigh fine hair down. They may also contain proteins that temporarily plump the hair shaft. If you have fine or flat hair, this is a reasonable claim to pay attention to. If you have thick or coarse hair, volumising shampoos are probably not doing much for you.
Is “moisturising” shampoo worth it?
Shampoos can provide some level of moisture, but they rinse off, so they’re never going to be your main source of hydration. Think of a moisturising shampoo as a first step, not the whole routine. You’ll still want a good conditioner, and probably a leave-in treatment or mask if your hair is particularly dry.
What does “clarifying” mean on a shampoo label?
Clarifying shampoos are designed to remove buildup, whether that’s from product, hard water minerals, or excess oil. They tend to be stronger than your everyday shampoo and aren’t designed for daily use. Once a week or fortnight is usually enough, depending on how much product you use.
How to Choose the Right Shampoo Formula for Your Hair Type
What shampoo is best for oily hair?
Look for a clarifying or balancing formula with surfactants (yes, including sulphates if needed). Avoid anything labelled “moisturising,” “nourishing,” or “smoothing,” as these tend to contain heavier ingredients that can add to the greasiness. A shampoo with salicylic acid can also help manage a congested or oily scalp.
What shampoo should I use for dry or damaged hair?
Reach for formulas with humectants like glycerin or panthenol, and avoid high concentrations of alcohol (which can dry hair out further). Sulphate-free formulas are usually kinder to already-dry hair. If your hair is damaged from heat or chemical treatments, a shampoo with keratin or bond-building technology can be worth the investment.
What is the best shampoo for colour-treated hair?
Sulphate-free is the main thing to look for. Sulphates can cause colour to fade faster by lifting the hair cuticle more aggressively. Beyond that, look for formulas labelled “colour safe” and avoid anything clarifying as a daily shampoo. You can still use a clarifying shampoo occasionally, but just know it will likely pull some colour with it.
What shampoo works best for curly or textured hair?
Curly and textured hair tends to be drier, so sulphate-free, moisturising formulas generally work better. Ingredients like shea butter, argan oil, and glycerin are your friends here. Co-washing (using conditioner to cleanse rather than shampoo) is also popular for very curly hair types, although it depends on how much product buildup you’re dealing with.
Is there such a thing as a good shampoo for sensitive scalps?
Yes, and the label should make it relatively clear. Look for fragrance-free formulas, and check that the first few surfactants in the ingredients list are gentle ones, like sodium cocoyl isethionate or cocamidopropyl betaine, rather than sodium lauryl sulphate. Formulas with niacinamide, zinc pyrithione (helpful for dandruff), or salicylic acid can also be worth exploring depending on what’s going on with your scalp specifically.
The back of a shampoo bottle really does tell you a lot once you know what you’re reading. It takes a minute or two at most, and it can save you a lot of trial and error (and money) in the long run. Once you find a formula that genuinely works for your hair, you’ll wonder why you ever grabbed the pretty bottle without checking.
Looking for more hair tips? Check out our guides to the best dry shampoos in Australia and how to repair heat-damaged hair.
